DIY Recycled Seed Paper and Homemade Valentines

Preparing Paper for Homemade Recycled Paper

• Shred paper into manageable pieces.
• Soak shredded paper in water.  The more robust the paper, the longer the soak. For example, newsprint is ready very quickly, standard white paper takes a while longer to truly soften up.  
• Once fully soaked and softened, puree the paper in water using a sturdy blender or food processor. Pulse first to break up the larger pieces and then puree into a pulpy mixtures.  

Tinting Recycled Paper Pulp (Optional)

• If tinting, transfer to a bowl, add dye (e.g. food colouring) and allow to sit for a while before proceeding to the next step. Newsprint will take on a grey hue when pureed and this will remain when dry and will darken any tint.  If you want white or a white base for a pale colour, you will need to work with a whiter paper product, such as standard paper.  If you want a particular tint, egg cartons often offer a nice pre-made pastel coloured base.

Adding Seeds to Make Plantable Paper (Optional)

For embedded seeds, mix your chosen small direct-sow seeds with the pureed paper at the pulp stage. Alternatively, in lieu of mixing into the pulp, you can pat them into the surface after pouring (see below) for controlled distribution or do a little bit of both. 

The amount of seed will depend on your plans for the finished paper. A small amount works for a project you plant as a whole while a larger amount is needed for a project where the paper is cut or punched into smaller pieces in order to ensure that each piece is seed infused. 

Making Homemade Paper from Prepared Pulp

Paper can be made in sheets (frame or freehand) or you can pre-shape using customised frames.  Window screens, mesh attached to an old picture frame, or mesh through an embroidery hoop all make easy screens with built in frames for shaping. Cookie cutters make fun mini-frames and you can even use shaped muffin/ice cube molds to make “seed bombs” but will need to hand sponge excess moisture from the latter in lieu of press and drain. You can also forgo frames all together and free-form using mesh placed directly on a permeable surface, like your lawn – easy peasy!

Pouring and Draining:

• Set up your stiff (or well-supported) screening material.  
• Dilute your prepared pulp with water if/as needed to get a nice free-flowing uniform pulpy mixture.
• Over a suitable drainage location, pour the mixture onto your screen. Try to ensure an even distribution. Ink from the paper and/or tinting may stain surfaces, so drain with care. I like to work outside, but if this isn’t an option, use a suitable laundry sink or set-up a large plastic container as a catch basin for pouring and draining.

Pressing:

• Press to remove excess moisture.  You can do this by hand patting, or a rolling pin may be useful if you need help pressing or flatting your pulp. If working outside, this can be done directly on over your lawn or other safe working area. Otherwise protect your surfaces if needed using a suitable container and/or layers of rags or old towels.

 Drying:

• Optional: Remove from the screen onto another firm breathable drying surface.  If your paper is well pressed, it should turn out intact onto your drying surface if your screen is inverted with care.  You can also allow to dry on your mesh screen. This is the simplest approach, especially if free forming since removal of dry paper from a frame isn’t a concern.
• Allow to dry thoroughly before use. This will take approximately 24hours (give or take) in a warm dry area. If you have a little residual moisture, pressing between dry towels using a warm (not hot – remember you have seeds in there) iron can help. Again, beware of dry transfer if tinted.
• If your paper is dry, but has dried a little wonky or curved/cupped, you can press it under a heavy object (e.g. a stack of heavy books) to help flatten before use.